The Synagogues of İzmir

My adventures in Smyrna continue this week with this selection of pictures from the Havra street, near the historic, but currently dilapidated Kemeraltı district.

Once a populous Jewish neighborhood, this small bundle of streets still has more than a dozen synagogues dotting every corner. This is the Sinyora Giveret Synagogue.

Izmir still has a large population of Jewish citizens, but they have long since moved away into more prosperous neighborhoods. Their temples, all dating from the 1500s or the 1600s, are still in active use. This is the Algaze, or Algazi Synagogue.

There's literally a synagogue behind every street corner. This is the Hevra Synagogue.

Another view of the Hevra Synagogue, showing its centuries-old walls.

The Ets Hayim, with surreal checkered tiles surrounding its door. It's a pity I couldn't get into any of them.

This imposing edifice was one of the oldest in the neighborhood. Informally known as the "Portuguese Synagogue," it was built in the early 1500s by Sephardi immigrants escaping oppression in Portugal.

The taste of history: Old, weird and cool at the same time.

A short way from the street of synagogues lies this house, purportedly that of a wealthy Jewish merchant that left no heirs. What an amazing, beautiful building. If I ever get to be rich enough, I'd like to buy, renovate and live in such a structure.

The rubble in front of this house is residue from archaeological digs in the Agora, the ancient heart of Smyrna. In my next post, I will reveal more mystery and historical oddities from that place. Until then... hold on tight!