An Apartment at Cihangir

The door and logotype of this apartment in Cihangir reminds me strangely of green Coca-Cola.

Hare Krishna Maniacs at Istanbul

Until last week I was happy in my coccoon, confident that although it was plagued by religious nutjobs, militant nationalists, suicide-bombing Kurdish separatists and politically-correct "oh, but it's their culture" democracy groupies, Turkey was still safe from the sinister threat of bunny-toting Hare Krishna maniacs. Until last week. Now, my dreams of security are shattered forever.

At Otto

A view from Asmalimescit, a district of Istanbul with many nice nightlife venues, restaurants, cafes and bars. It is also ultra-trendy, sometimes to the point of being annoying. These tables belong to Otto, a nice crossover between an Italian bistro and a nightclub. They also give you pens and crayons with every meal, so that you can doodle on your menus. They then exhibit the best pieces on their website.

Asmali Mescit Street Art

A street-art sticker I did in Asmalımescit, a notoriously artsy-fartsy district of Istanbul with more intellectuals, designers, fashion hags and art creeps than you can shake a copy of ID Magazine at. Translated from Turkish, it reads something like "STOP! You are crossing a state boundary! No entrance beyond this point without Japanese bang haircuts, filthy intellectual beards, a cocaine addiction, a huge ego or an affliction of post-modernity." I swear it makes more fun if you know the place.

A Nice Lady

Derya is not really a close friend, but I nevertheless felt a divine urge to post this picture.

At the Goulandris Museum of Natural History

Here we go with a big post on the Goulandris Museum of Natural History at Athens. Here is a random detail, an algae-shaped lighting fixture at the ceiling of the hall of botany.

Founded in 1964 by the Greek philantrophist Aggelos Goulandris, the museum has one of the weirdest reconstructions of the early theropod dinosaur Syntarsus rhodesiensis. With dinosaur reconstructions evolving as our information about these creatures increases, such errors have to be overlooked.

A fossil crinoid, or sea lily. My friend Stanton will doubtless be able to identify its genus.

Here is a skeleton of Testudo hermanni, the common tortoise. Poor turtle! I wonder what happened to his left hand. And right foot.

Back when people didn't believe species could run out, mounting rare birds in elaborately-arranged displays was very popular. These Quetzals (Pharomachrus sp.) are one such example.

I regret that I couldn't get the proper scientific names of these interesting crabs.

But I know what this is... This is Mormolyce phylloides, a violin-beetle. These beetles use their elongated heads to probe small cracks and crevices for prey. If you want to see more, visit this small but -packed- museum as soon as possible!

Peyote Bar

The terrace of Peyote bar in Istanbul is a popular drinking spot in the sweltering summer months.

A Dead Gecko

A dead lizard I found in front of the Megaro Mousikis (Opera House) in Athens. Its smashed up head suggests it was probably impaled (and accidentally dropped) by an unknown predatory bird. Its distinctive pad-and-claw feet identify it (ironically) as a Hemidactylus turkicus, the Turkish gecko. Rest in peace, friend.

A Roadside Casualty

Dorsal and ventral views of a Melonthinid beetle of the genus Phyllophaga I found squashed on a pavement in the European side of Istanbul a week ago. These creatures spend one year of their life underground as thumb-sized pale, gnarly larvae before emerging in the following spring. Aptly enough, they are commonly known as June or May Beetles. Rest in peace, friend.

Two More Friends

Two of my friends from the infamous Peyote bar in Taksim.

Wiped Out

New Year's on Kartalkaya, a ski resort in Bolu. Under a whipping snowstorm, my friend Neco is playing the guitar while Ela and the guy-whose-name-I-forgot dance around him. Naturally, such resistance to the elements is only possible when you are drunk.

Design Disaster

An orgy of MS-Word kitsch from an advertisement of Celsius, a local club. "SiNirsiZZZZZZZZZ" means something like "UnLiMiTEDDDDDDDD".

A Palatial Estate

A beautiful apartment building at Rumelihisarı, next to the second Bosphorus bridge. This building is currently in use as the Headquarters of Borusan, one of Turkey's largest engineering firms.

Pinnacles of Stone

This picture was taken on one of the numerous rocky islets around the coast of Marmaris in the south-western tip of the Anatolian peninsula. I'm no geologist, but I'd bet these colossal rocks are volcanic in nature.

Two Friends

My friend Aslı with her boyfriend in Taksim. Aslı's father is one of my biggest sponsors. The stencil on the wall behind them reads; "Bill posters and graffiti-sprayers will be prosecuted."

Calamari Overload

Just looking at this picture makes me drool. Must... eat... more... kalamaria! This was taken in a supermarket in Athens.

A Visit to Izmir

The skyline of Izmir. This distant view does not do this beautiful city much justice.

This is more like it. Such a wealth of beautifully preserved architecture is very rare in Turkey.

But today's Izmir is still a shadow of its former glory. After the Turkish army re-took Smyrna from the Greeks, they destroyed more than 33 churches and monasteries, including the iconic tower of Hagia Fotini pictured here. A bad replica of this magnificent structre still stands in the Athenian neighborhood of Nea Smyrna today.

Ankara Skyline

The skyline of Ankara, with the city emerging out of the Anatolian plain like undulating waves of concrete.

Roxyyyy!!!

The deceptively bland entrance of Roxy, one of Istanbul's best nightclubs.

UPDATE!

It has been almost two years since I wrote this post, and now I have to report that Roxy has degraded into one of the crappiest, most overpriced stinkholes in the entirety of Istanbul's nightlife scene.

A Truck Depot at Istanbul

A sleepy truck stop as seen from the Filia (Friendship) Express that runs between Thessaloniki and Istanbul. In the distance you can make out the Byzantine walls that used to protect the city.

A Dog

This dog was very happy to see me!

The Bath-House of the Winds

The Tower of the Winds in the Roman agora of Athens. This bizarre antique structure bore a rotating statue of Neptune on the top, which indicated the direction of the wind. It also had a water-powered mechanical clock inside. The early Christians then got rid of these artifacts to make it into a church.

Athenian Houses

A very attractive apartment close to Lycabettos Hill in Athens. Note the chaotic TV aerials sticking out from the top, a truly Greek tradition.

Athenian Ruins

Roman-era ruins in Athens, taken from Melidoni Street. The church in the distance is, of course, a more recent addition.

Ankara! Ankara!

Dark, cold and weary, this picture seems to sum up all there is to know about winters at the Turkish capital.

A relatively more cheerful view of Ankara. Le Corbusier would be proud.

A Wounded Bird

This common wren (Troglodytes troglodytes) hit our window over a month ago. We fed and cared for it for two days, but afterwards its situation got worse. Finally, when it was unable to move its legs or wings with its head locked in a strange angle, I had to euthanise the poor thing by dropping a brick on him. Sorry birdu!

Nightlife at Istanbul and Uludag

The dreary nightlife at the Turkish winter resort of Uludağ during Christmas season, 2004. The evening's activities are limited to aimlessly walking around in the snow or trying to get into one of the two crowded nightclubs in the town. Alternatively, you can binge-drink yourself to death in your friends' hotel rooms.

The not-so-dreary nightlife of Istanbul at the Dirty club, Beyoglu. This is a random photo, I know nobody from this picture.

A Visit to Kalal Shalom

The Menorah at the Kalal Shalom Synagogue in Rhodes. This Synagogue also has two Arks, a mighty peculiar feature.

At the Great Salt Lake

My father took this photograph of me, my brother and my friend Neco on the great Salt Lake in the middle of the Anatolian heartland. Covering an area of 1500 square kilometers, the lake is only two meters deep at its deepest point. You can walk for miles and miles on the mirror-like surface, pretending that you are on some Star-Trek-like mission to an unexplored planet.

A House With a View

The awesome view from my friend Hazal's balcony. Right in front of us are the domes and towers of the Galata neighborhood. Beyond that lies the Golden Horn and after that, Topkapi palace; the old seat of Ottoman Government. In the extreme distance you can see the shores of Kadikoy (Chalcedon) on the Asian side of the City. Many people sit there and drink by the sea, but I don't think you can see them from here.

The Hostels of Rhodes

In Rhodes you might encounter this sweet, little hostel called Nassos' Hostel, which might arguably be the most shoddy establishment on the entire island.

The "room" I spent a night in at Nassos'. You could also sleep on the roof "for special price."

The Domes of Rhodes

A surreal building from Rhodes. Can anyone identify what it is? The letters at the top spell out "Elli."

The Houses That Love Built

Lack of building codes makes room for some pretty bizarre architecture (and a lot of ugliness) in Turkey. This candy-box apartment block is from the outskirts of Smyrna, or Izmir.

...the problem with bizarre architecture is not much different in Greece. This is from an inland village in Rhodes.

Fat Kids with a Jellyfish

These fat kids were very happy because they had just caught a huge jellyfish of an indeterminate species. Taken near Bitez bay, Bodrum.

Even More Froglets

The same Bufo viridis froglet, looking badass a day after fully metamorphosing.